St Davids Day

The first of March belongs to Pembrokeshire more than to anywhere else in Wales. David — Dewi Sant — founded his monastic settlement in the valley of the River Alun in the sixth century, and the cathedral that grew there holds his shrine. Whatever happens elsewhere in the country, this is where it started.

At the cathedral. There are services on the day, and the shrine of St David sits in the presbytery with the relics behind it. The building is free to enter and it is worth timing a visit for choral evensong whatever the date. The cathedral sits below the level of the city so you drop down to it through the Tower Gate — a genuinely odd approach for a building of that size.

In the towns. Primary schools across the county hold eisteddfodau and turn out in Welsh costume, so expect a lot of small children in tall black hats. Some of the larger towns run parades. Welsh cakes, cawl and leeks appear in every cafe.

What it is not. This is not a bank holiday in Wales, so shops and schools run as normal and the parades tend to be modest, local affairs rather than anything on a national scale. Nothing is guaranteed to run in any given town.

Going anyway. Early March is a good time to be here for other reasons: the Coast Path is empty, seabirds are back on the cliff ledges, and accommodation is at its cheapest. Check with individual venues for what is happening this year.