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Britain's smallest city — a cathedral in a hollow, Whitesands Bay up the road, and the wildest, most beautiful corner of the national park all around.

Round the headland at the far west of Wales, past an Iron Age fort and a 5,000-year-old burial chamber, with Ramsey Island offshore.

From an industrial harbour past the Blue Lagoon and round the wild north side of the St Davids peninsula to the county's most popular beach.

Wales's holiest site, hidden in its hollow — 12th-century nave, medieval ceiling, and the great ruined palace beside it.

Harbour to cathedral city: 6 miles past St Non's chapel and some of the north's loveliest small coves.

The sport was invented on this coast — guided scramble-swim-jump sessions around Abereiddi and St Non's with licensed operators.

Wild and rocky: St Davids Head, Coetan Arthur, heather ridges and the Blue Lagoon finish — 7 tough, brilliant miles.

Art-hotel restaurant in a converted windmill in St Davids — serious modern Welsh cooking.

An RSPB island of high cliffs and autumn seal pups, reached across one of the fiercest tidal races in Britain. What to expect, and when to go.

Three days based around St Davids or Newport: cathedral, cliffs, a quarry harbour and the Preselis. Written for a Friday-night arrival.

St Davids' big Blue Flag surf beach beneath Carn Llidi — sand, swell and sunsets at the end of Wales.

St Davids' walk-to beach: purple-tinged sandstone cliffs, a steep flight of steps and clean sand at low water.