Christmas Lights and Late Night Shopping

The switch-on evenings are the best thing about a Pembrokeshire November, and they are aimed squarely at people who live here rather than at visitors, which is what makes them worth going to.

Narberth does it best. A steep high street of independent shops, all open late, most of them with something free on a table by the door, plus stalls, music and a genuinely good atmosphere. Because the shops are actually good, late night shopping here is a real thing rather than a euphemism.

Tenby puts lights through the walled town and along the harbour, which looks better than any amount of high street bunting anywhere else. Haverfordwest and Fishguard run their own evenings, usually with a parade, a lantern procession or a market attached. Smaller places do a tree, a carol service and a mince pie, and that is enough.

What to expect. Brass bands and choirs, a countdown, a local celebrity or the mayor doing the honours, mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, and a lot of children being carried. It will be cold and it will probably rain, since this is west Wales in November.

Practical. Dates differ by town and are set locally — check the individual town council or chamber of trade closer to the time. Park early; small town centres get full for these evenings and some streets are closed to traffic.

Out of season accommodation is cheap, the coast is empty, and combining a switch-on with a couple of days walking is a good, quiet weekend.