Fishguard to Pwll Deri via Strumble Head

Thirteen miles, seven hundred metres of climbing and no shop after Goodwick. This is one of the two or three hardest days on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and one of the best.

From Lower Town the path drops round the bay to Goodwick, past the ferry terminal where the Rosslare boats come and go, and climbs out onto the cliffs beyond. Look back at the breakwater: it was built for transatlantic liners that never really came.

Two miles on, a stone memorial marks Carregwastad Point. In February 1797 around 1,400 French troops came ashore here in what was the last armed invasion of mainland Britain. It collapsed within two days — the local militia, the Fishguard townspeople and a certain amount of looted wine all played a part, and the surrender was signed in a Fishguard inn. There is nothing at the point but the monument, the grass and the sea, which makes the story land better than any visitor centre would.

The path continues to Strumble Head, where the lighthouse of 1908 stands on the islet of Ynys Meicel, joined to the mainland by a footbridge. There's a small car park and an old wartime lookout that's been kept as a cetacean watch hut. This is the single best land-based place in Wales to see harbour porpoises: the tide races round the head and they feed in the overfalls, often in numbers, often close in. Common dolphins, minke whales and Risso's dolphins are all seen from here in late summer. Seals are constant. It's also a serious migration watchpoint for seabirds — bring binoculars and expect to lose an hour.

West of Strumble the walking gets harder. The path becomes narrow and rocky, threading between gorse and heather along a wild, low-cliffed coast with almost no habitation. It's slow going and there is nowhere to bail out.

The stage ends above Pwll Deri, a bay under high cliffs with the hillfort of Garn Fawr on the hill behind. The detour up to Garn Fawr is short and the view runs from Ramsey to Cardigan Bay. There's a memorial stone above the bay to the poet Dewi Emrys.

Where to finish. There's nothing at Pwll Deri itself. Fishguard and Goodwick have the pubs and cafés; plan the bus or the lift before you set off.

Doing it in halves. Fishguard to Strumble Head is about eight miles and much the easier part. Strumble to Pwll Deri on its own is five hard ones.