Moylegrove (Trewyddel)

Moylegrove — Trewyddel in Welsh — sits in a green valley a mile inland from Ceibwr Bay, in the far north-eastern corner of the national park. It is a small, largely residential village with a chapel, a village hall and no shop, and it exists here mainly because this is the last sheltered ground before the coast turns spectacular.

Ceibwr Bay, at the bottom of the lane, is a rocky cove owned by the National Trust with a small parking area and no facilities at all. The Coast Path from it is as dramatic as anything in Wales: south-west towards Newport past the Witches' Cauldron, a collapsed sea cave that has left a blowhole and a natural arch you can look down into, and north-east along the highest cliffs on this coast towards Cemaes Head. The rock here is folded into contortions that geologists come specifically to see. Seals pup in the coves in autumn; choughs and peregrines work the cliffs year-round.

This is a base for walkers and people who genuinely want quiet. There is nothing to do in the village, the lanes are single-track with passing places, and the nearest proper shops are in Cardigan, ten minutes away over the county border, or St Dogmaels. Newport is fifteen minutes for restaurants and a big beach, Poppit Sands ten. If the plan involves a lot of driving to attractions, base yourself elsewhere; if it involves boots, tides and empty clifftops, this is one of the best-value corners of Pembrokeshire.

Cottages and converted outbuildings in and around the village give gardens, parking and dark skies, usually at lower prices than the coast further west. Anything on the lane towards Ceibwr puts the Coast Path within walking distance, which is the main prize here. Expect to drive for shops and restaurants.

Narrow lanes from the B4582 near Nevern or from the A487 at Eglwyswrw, and from Cardigan via St Dogmaels. No station nearby; the roads in are single-track in places.