Skrinkle Haven

Skrinkle Haven is the most theatrical bit of coast in south Pembrokeshire: pale limestone cliffs dropping into clear water, and a great natural arch — Church Doors, so named because the openings look like a cathedral doorway — dividing the haven into two coves. It's the beach that ends up on the front of the guidebooks, and unlike most such places it takes some effort to reach.

Access is from the car park by the old army camp and hostel above, then down a long, steep, exposed metal staircase in the cliff. The state of that staircase and the paths at the bottom has varied over the years, and sections have been closed for safety at times, so look for current signage and don't climb round barriers. The coves are reached only at lower states of the tide; at high water the sea is against the cliff and there's no beach at all. Getting cut off here is a real risk, not a theoretical one.

Go at low tide on a calm day and it's remarkable — clean sand, clear green water, and the arch to walk through between the two coves. Swimming is unguarded and there is nothing at the beach whatsoever. It works well combined with Manorbier, ten minutes' drive or a good hour along the Coast Path, and the clifftop walk itself between Manorbier and Lydstep is superb even if you never go down the steps.